"There’s no such thing as a safe tan".

Posted by Peter Polgar on June 07, 2011.

“How can I tan safely?” – Sunscreens by the numbers,, by Paul Davies

“There’s no such thing as a safe tan.”

 As a pharmacist, I have said that many times.  But a lack of tan doesn’t necessarily mean you’re practicing “safe sun”.  Let me explain.

Checked the sunscreen section lately?  Confused by the myriad of products, numbers, letters and claims?  Join the club.  It’s a confusing world with confusing standards, seemingly reassuring claims and confusing choices.

Wondering if you should use a 15, 30, 45, or 60? (or even 100 in some countries).  Pick a higher number and you have more protection, right?

 WRONG!  Not all sunscreens are created equal, even if they have the same number.

 Do you need UVA and UVB protection?

YES! ( More on that later). 

There are terms like waterproof, sweatproof, non greasy,  hypoallergenic, sensitive skin, and kids formula.  How do you choose?

To understand how to protect yourself, you have to know what you are protecting yourself from.  Here’s where my staff roll their eyes at me because they know I’m going to take all the fun out the sun.  That’s right.  We’re talking about radiation.  Ultraviolet radiation.  They also know I go on too long. But this is IMPORTANT! So PAY ATTENTION!  I promise there are no gross pictures of skin cancer coming.

Generally speaking, UV radiation comes in 3 types: A, B, and C.  Unless you’re a polar bear or penguin, you don’t have to worry about UVC despite its dangerous energy.  The ozone layer absorbs this very high energy, short wavelength radiation.  It also doesn’t penetrate barriers like windows. That’s good because it would definitely damage life on earth.  Let’s protect that ozone layer!

UVB is a medium high energy, longer wavelength with some ability to penetrate skin and barriers.  It causes sun burns.  Think B for Burn.  Repeated  Sunscreens are rated on their ability to protect skin from burning.  In testing, it takes skin twice as long to burn when using a “30” sunscreen compared to a “15” sunscreen.  And a “60” protects twice as long as a “30”.  UVB makes up about 5% of the sun’s rays hitting us, depending on the time of day and intensity of the sun.

“So all I need is a higher number right?”

WRONG!

UVA is a lower energy, longer wavelength, deeper penetrating radiation.  It makes up about 95% of the sun’s rays hitting us and intensity tends to be more consistent throughout the year and in any weather.  It is known to cause photosensitivity (allergic reaction to sun) and photo damage (aging and other damage of the skin).  Think A for Allergy and Aging.  We don’t have a good way to measure and label UVA protection. 

“So all I need to do is check the label for UVA/UVB protection, right?”

NOT SO FAST!

UVA is not one wavelength.  It is a range of wavelengths.  Think of light: it comes in colours. Red, yellow, blue.  Different wavelength: different colour.  And just like the lenses on a theatre light, different filters screen different colours. 

Okay, back to the confusing labels:  ever noticed how many crazy sounding ingredients are in one sunscreen?  Wonder why?  That’s to cover as many wavelengths as possible.  Some ingredients reflect light at the surface of the skin and some need to soak in for 30 minutes or so to work best.

“Paul, I’m bored.  Can’t you just tell me what is the best sunscreen?”

Yes: The roof over your head, except for exactly 15 minutes a day around noon, because you need to get some vitamin D or you’ll turn into a vampire.   Just kidding.  Sort of.

The best sunscreen is to physically protect your skin from the sun.  Stay in the shade, especially between 11am and 3pm.  Wear a wide brimmed hat.  Cover exposed skin (except for 15 minutes a day).

“Paul, you’re no fun.”

Okay, next best is to use a sunscreen that truly protects your skin.  I’m already over my word allotment, so I’m not going to review every ingredient, but here’s what I look for:

A physical sunblock:  examples are titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.  They sit on the surface and reflect all wavelengths, especially UVB and short UVA although some long UVA can pass through.  They may make the skin look shiny or even white if applied thickly.  They work well, but can be washed or rubbed off so reapply frequently.

  • A shortwave UVA absorber like Mexoryl® 
  • A longwave UVA absorber like avobenzone/Parsol 1789 
  • A stabilizer and UVB absorber like Octocrylene.

There are other sunscreens and ingredients that can do a good job, but you asked what I like.  Okay, actually, I asked, but you’re reading.

“Any other advice.”

Yes.  Drink plenty of water.  Exercise.  Get plenty of rest.  Eat healthy (think unpackaged).  Be kind to our planet and to each other.  Tuck in your shirt. (You are wearing a shirt, right?)

Maybe next we’ll talk about what you can do if you don’t take my advice and start looking like a lobster.

‘til next time.  Take care of yourself.

Paul

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